The Plank Powell Raise

If you climb and train long enough, you’ll eventually taste the bittersweet reminder that your body is in fact, breakable. It’s one of the downsides to pushing our boundaries and limits - injuries however, do not need to happen without a silver lining. They reveal pieces of our bio-mechanical machine that can be improved and strengthened, which in turn yields a stronger and more resilient body. Enter the Powell Raise.

This exercise was prescribed to me during physical therapy years ago when I was battling a severe case of Biceps Tendonitis. I have kept this (or some progression/variation) in my training repertoire ever since. Many would call this antagonist training, which technically it is. I’ve always disliked that term though because so often people hear “antagonist training” and they want to skip it. Why? A: it’s often difficult/uncomfortable, and B: they don’t see the value in it. I strongly believe that if you’re going to go through the effort of training for a sport training both agonist AND antagonist muscles should be compulsory.

The Plank Powell Raise is a horizontal shoulder abduction (sideways arm raise) that focuses on the mid trapezius muscles, rhomboids, and posterior deltoid. These are all important muscle groups for climbers to work on because they help balance out the body from the tremendous forces generated by the latissimus dorsi, pectoralis major and minor, and the deltoids. The side plank element of this exercise adds a touch of difficulty and core stability work.

It’s important to remember with this particular exercise that lifting heavy weights is not the goal. Performing higher reps with light loads will yield the best benefits from this exercise. 3 sets of 10 reps is usually my go-to count with a very light weight, I typically use a 10 pound dumbbell myself.

I like to cue athletes to focus on maintaining a good, solid side plank which will engage the transverse abdominals and hip flexors first and foremost. Second is to raise the arm quickly, not fast but with a modest amount of speed. The lower should be slower, a nice smooth fluid motion back to the starting position.